10
Feb 21

Could things just stop breaking please?

So immediately after buying it a nice new jig and making it a new backing board, the lidl grinder gave up on the grinding life. There’s something about noticing that your bowl gouge is bouncing on the stone and then realising that that’s happening because the stone is wobbling while doing around four thousand rpm in front of your face that will trigger both a sharp step to the right out of the line of fire, and will bump up the schedule for buying kit for the shed.

I probably shouldn’t be so annoyed, I got a good five years out of that and I paid about €35 for it from Lidl, so I definitely got my money’s worth. And I’ve since taken it apart and the problem seems small enough that it can do light duty with a wire wheel or a buffing wheel later on, but for now it’s gone into storage along with the wheels (which were grand, they’re axminster wheels and are sound).

But I’m not a fan of the idea of exploding stone wheels in the shed given that there’s so little room that I’d get hit from all directions at once with the ricochets. So the plan to buy a slow-speed grinder was brought forward by a few months, and the plan was to buy a Creusen 7500TS because I’d used one in the woodturning course last year and they’re solid little beasties. But right now between covid and brexit, they’re out of stock all over the EU and the UK. So, plan B was the Dictum own-brand low-speed grinder, the DS150L. Placed an order and a bit over a week later, the large box shows up at the door along with Dictum catalogs to drool over.

It’s an absolute unit of a thing. Initial assembly took a little while and the sparkguards are a no-go because the bolts that attach them are so long they impinge on the wheels. Granted, I could grind them down, but honestly, given that I never use these things without a full faceshield, I’m not sure they’d give me anything. The spark arresters are a welcome addition and I left off the right hand table because that’s where the Tormek jig will go.

This thing is very very solidly built. Cast iron base, what looks to be a mild steel body. The tray thing on the bottom is thin plastic but you can’t just discard it as it’s the main cover over the inside and the electrics.

I did have to dissassemble it to put it on the backboard because it comes with heavy rubber feet so it can just sit on a bench and there are slots in the cast iron base to bolt it to a benchtop that way; but I wasn’t comfortable with that while it hangs on the wall. Maybe in a future shed 😀

Did I mention that it’s very very big? I honestly didn’t think I’d be able to reuse the backing board, but it just squeaked in there.

Okay, the entirety of the left wheel is now hovering out in free space while the right wheel has almost three millimetres of spare board left once everything is mounted, but it does fit.

You might also notice that the BGM-100 stand for the Tormek jig bar is now at full extension where as it was as short as I could make it with the Lidl grinder. Everything works, but it feels comically large compared to the old machine. And there’s a huge surface area to work on when sharpening, which is a nice bonus.

And it runs just so sweetly. Quiet, fast to get up to speed, and so solid and vibration free. If it lasts as long as the Lidl special, I’ll be very happy with it. I might even buy a CBN for it later this year if it works out (and if they come back into stock – again, covid and brexit is making a dogs breakfast out of a lot of companies’ stock levels).

With tools sharpened again, I made my first pen and a nice little box as birthday gifts for Claire, and now I have nothing in the must-do-first list in the shed so I’m thinking about the next thing I want to tackle, and well timed, this finally arrived as well…

China’s cheapest, but now I have an airbrush for every chestnut stain in the shed, and a gravity-fed cup for the iridescents and other paints and a second one for in the house because if they’re seven quid each, why not, and I do actually use them for fun outside of the shed anyway 😀

(3D printed models, not complete yet, much more work needed on painting and details)

‘Course, I’m also back to the Lidl air compressor because my little Draper 6L compressor gave up the ghost and now dumps the entire tank out through an internal valve somewhere inside the mechanism after pressurising. It should still be under warranty but I’ll give you three guesses how fast the company I bought it from is replying to my emails…

I did manage to make something from all the offcuts from the new baseboard for the old grinder though, so it took a full year, but I finally made something from offcuts that would otherwise have been burned 😀


18
Mar 20

3D Update

Over the last few weeks, the stringing problem kept going with the 3D printer. And of course, that caused things like the printing head snagging on a piece after 12 hours and dragging it off the bed…

Not great timing. I did reprint and it worked, this time with the experimental tree support structures which look really neat mid-print:

That orientation was pants though, so for the next segment, it was rotated through 90 degrees:

That worked much better.

Of course, when trying to plug one into the other…

Well, sod.
Print another in the right orientation though and…

Mind you, snapping those together was right on the edge of breaking them and it seems like PLA is *not* the right material. Also, that was the last of my first reel of PLA – I came within an inch or two of running out mid-print:

So I got some more, this time not from Creality because a lot of internet experts were sure that creality filament was the source of reliability issues with prints. So eSUN is the new hotness:

First up, as this is PLA+ not PLA, a new temperature tower…

Final layer stuck to the head, but that’s okay, it’s expected that the print ends in failure because you’re looking for limits.

Looks grand under the magnifying glass. 210C it is so I think. Calibration cat time!

And now I have a cover for the end of the Y axis bar as well. I also printed off a light bar to hold some LEDs for lighting….

And then printed a centerfinder/caliper setting gauge that I’ve been trying to print for ages.

The idea being it can be a centerfinder for spindle turning and give you preset (in 5mm increments) references to set a turning caliper off of. Handy.

But for the dust extraction stuff, it looks like both PLA and PLA+ are non-runners. There’s no flex in them so when you push hose segments together, they’ll snap in half rather than flex a little and snap together. So I ordered some PETG as well, but ordered the refil instead of the reel by mistake (eSUN does refillable reels) so now I get to print off a filament reel using filament and this is getting a tad meta…

Two sides down, one hub printing now, and then I can change filament over to PETG, print off a temperature test tower, and get back to dust collection parts.

BTW, finding that blue tape on glass is a much more successful surface than the ones I’ve tried so far. Even hairspray didn’t help much.

More pressing on the 3D front though is that the setup is currently the jankiest setup I’ve janked in a very long time.

That’s three separate power lines in that photo, between the ender3’s PSU, the lab PSU and the raspberry Pi. There needs to be some rewiring, but since all this is getting moved off its desk when the nice man from Ikea arrives, I’ve just not done it yet. (This whole room has to become a home office for two people now, so the printer is going to its own table in the corner).

I have, however, switched over to using OctoPi to drive the ender, and it’s marvellous, it’s where all those timelapse videos come from for a start. It also gives a browser UI to control the printer and monitor its progress via a webcam (a repurposed PS3 Eye in this case because I had one and they’re cheap as chips, but the Raspberry Pi camera and a few others are supported too).

Oh, and I even managed to print a dial indicator holder finally. So. Progress 😀

But next up, moving all of this, rewiring all of this, possibly enclosing all of this and generally a metric buttload of changes. So, y’know, that dust extraction system may take longer than planned. But these days, that’s the standard state of affairs…


01
Mar 20

Buying space

So I kept looking at this and trying to think of where I could stash timber and I kept coming back to the litre-in-a-pint-pot nature of the problem. And some problems you just can’t fix with tidying up stints.

But there’s this little trick you learn in engineering – you can throw money at some problems and they just go away. So I pootled off to homebase and bought a garden storage box (a Keter store-it-out midi for €120 if you’re wondering). And also got the next size up for the garden furniture because it’s driving Claire batty seeing the stuff making the back patio look messy.

Fiddly things to assemble if you get the order of operations wrong and it doesn’t help when your manual is paper mache because someone stored them outside in the rain at the garden center…

Never seen that before. But thanks to online copies of manuals I got them assembled, and spent most of Sunday moving the smaller one onto that little bit of deck outside the shed and then moving all the timber that would fit into the box and tidying stuff up. The difference is… well, pretty noticable when you’re in the shed.

Not done yet, but good grief. I was able to push the bandsaw six full inches to the wall, and I now have enough room in there to actually move around, it’s awesome. I want to put a shelf in the storage box and try to move some of the finishes from the right side of the bench, but that’ll wait for another day.

Oh, and I drilled another doghole in the apron so I’d have a place to put that bench hook for my japanese saws. Works well, wish I’d done it sooner.

The benchtop’s still cramped, but at least now the problem is manageable.

Bolted down the lathe. That was a pig of a job. Turns out, the electronics box (the bit with the switch on the right) hangs *below* the lowest level of the casting when you take off the rubber feet that come with it, so you can’t just bolt the casting down to the stand, you need a spacer (I used M10 nuts for now, but I’ve ordered four ice hockey pucks that I’ll replace the nuts with for vibration damping). And the threading in the casting got painted over so I had to run an M8 tap up through the holes to clean then up, but I had to do that while the lathe was more or less in that position, just swung out a little over the edge to get some access.

And then a misalignment from earlier bit me. When I glued on the top on the stand, I bumped the top at the tailstock end while trying to do the glue-up on the headstock end and didn’t notice (there are downsides to not having any space in the working area beyond inconvenience and safety y’know, the work suffers too):

Out by a full 15mm or so. Which means that the bolt through the top from underneath into the casting is fine on one side of the tailstock and on the other side would require me to cut away a chunk of the crossbar to access the nut. *sigh*

I may need to do that (and it’s at the end where the crossbar can lose a little mass anyway) but for now I just threaded the bolt down from above enough to align everything (so the M10 nut spacer doesn’t drift off and leave the casting unsupported) but it’s not holding the lathe down (and yes, the vibration is now much more noticable). When the hockey pucks get here, I’ll fix that.

I also put up a really quick and dirty shelf from an offcut.

It has some recesses for the faceplate and the chuck and a hole or three for knockout rod, tool rest and chuck key, but there’s more work to do there, not least of which will be a support from the back to the edge of the shelf as it flexes too much and to move it over slightly to get one of the screws at least into a wall stud (and also more holes for things like the indexing pin for the headstock) But it got more stuff off the bench so that’s fine.

I do have a cheap hall-effect sensor based tachometer to fit as well, which will require removing the electronics box and doing some rewiring and also some mounting holes in the casting to get the sensor close enough to the spindle to sense a magnet mounted on that. The black plastic hood does lever back but the geometry means I can’t just drill into that and mount it that way. Need to think abou this a little.

I also need to figure out lathe tool storage.

Yes, I also need to tidy the shavings, I know, I know. But where do I put the lathe tools is the current question. I don’t like the idea of putting them on the back wall because I don’t want to lean over the lathe; I’m thinking more of a small (2×4) array of pvc pipe segments on the wall below the window and angled towards where I’d stand slightly (I only have six lathe tools, but I want to be able to get one or two more in the next few months). They can’t go by the door which was the natural choice because that’s where the sharpening station is going.

There’s also a little camera arm thingy in there so I can try to get timelapse photos and other fun things later.

And those bench hooks and jigs can’t stay behind the lathe, they fall over instantly when you start the lathe up. Not sure where they’re going. Bit of a pain, those. But waaaay too vital to throw away. They’re nearly daily use tools.

That weird-looking thing in the lathe by the way, is me cleaning up this week’s course project, which was a basic tool handle which is right now  holding a saw file. But the bandsaw cut on the back end wasn’t square, and I also had to cut down the ferrule from this:

Still a bit of tidying up to do yet. But at least the long timber is squared away and tied off (and the dowels are in their own 100mm pvc pipe holder).

Need a container for the squeezy bottles of finish and the MMAP and Butane gas though. I might be able to hang those containers off the dust extraction cart if they’re readily removable for when I have to empty that thing. And I have more 100mm hose coming to run the extractor over to the lathe properly, so the sooner I get the 3D printer printing off dust extraction fittings the better. If I can retire the 40mm dust deputy for something like a 100mm Thien cyclone lid for the blue dust barrel, that would work much much better for my little shed as it wouldn’t be banging off the ceiling and I could run the 100m hose to the cyclone instead of the extractor directly.

Did manage to get a 20mm calibration cube to print and it seems I’m getting some reasonable results off the printer.

I mean. they’re parts at least. Not a mess of spaghetti behind the machine where the print head knocked it. Yes, that is the Taj Mahal at the front, the rest are parts for the printer itself.

But it does look like spiderman tried to immobilise it (the extruder head needs to come down a few degrees C I think) and for some reason I’m still getting warping but only on the right hand side of the bed?

Odd. I’m probably trying to print too many objects at once. Oh well. Prioritisation needed. Parts to improve the printer first, then on to dust collection. I’m running low on filament so I ordered another reel, this time from a manufacturer called eSun instead of this stuff from Creality which has more than a few very loud negative reviews from the various forums for these printers. We’ll see.